Jim Cunningham -- friend and expat from Scotland
Jim introducing Kian to two expats from Australia.
About 40 expats, mostly Aussies, showed up for their weekly gathering at Kingston Lodge.
Saturday, August 20, 2011
Parting Shots...
This is my last post from Butuan for summer 2011. I'm preparing to return to USA and go back to work. After much shorter Xmas and Spring Break trips we hope we will all make our way together to the USA in summer 2012. What follows are some recent photos from the past two weeks and a short trip we took to Cagayan de Oro. There were a few folks who regularly returned to the blog for updates -- Thanks for reading and hope you enjoyed it.
Thursday, August 4, 2011
Pics of all three of us...finally
Still need to ask someone to take pictures of us. Eme's says her mom can't hold the camera steady, but her niece arrived last week so she will be our photographer. This set was just us playing around a bit.
Monday, August 1, 2011
Banana Catsup is not the only clue you're not in Kansas (which overall is fine by me)
One of my favorite condiments here in Philippines is Del Monte Spicy tomato Ketchup/Catsup. It is a cross between regular Del Monte catsup and crushed red pepper sweet and spicy sauce served at Chinese restaurants. It's GREAT..and I hope to find it in the Asian food stores in Virginia. The Grand Mart would be a good place to look for it.
But one day the grocery store was all out of the Del Monte Hot and Spicy. So we had to look at alternatives. What we found was UFC Hot and Spicy Banana Catsup. It is made in Philippines by a Philippine company. It would not be red if they didn't put food coloring in it. The "banana" is not a sweet banana. It's more like a plantain. There are typical catsup spices in it and vinegar. It is also WAY hotter than the Del Monte catsup. It can't be hot enough for me so I love it. I think it has those common small red chilis that grow on bushes in the Philippines -- the same ones I took a picture of at the Market.
There are a lot of curious products here that do not exist in USA. For example, Vaseline shampoo! Yup...it's got the Vaseline name so you know it's good stuff. And...it comes as a powder you pour in whatever bottle your last shampoo came in and you just add water.
That's something else I noticed here. LOTS of familiar products that come in bottles in the USA, are equally present here in thick plastic bag/bottles with flat bottoms. They are are just stiff enough to stand up. And many products I've never seen in a powdered concentrated form are common here. Shampoos and dish soap are as common as there liquid in-a-bottle equivalents. They are like "powdered milk" -- and less expensive. These products make a lot of sense here for two BIG reasons:
1. Most of these products in liquid form are mostly water, making them heavy to ship and take up more shipping space. This weight and volume is then transferred to a Filipino customer who will most likely hand carry them on to a tricycle for a ride home. Several overloaded grocery bags filled with liquid products can be reduced to a single easy to carry bag filled with packets of the powdered product.
2. Lower cost... Shipping higher quantities of light weight and compact packets of powdered product reduces costs for the manufacturers and stores. These savings are passed on to the customers. Almost everyone I observed was buying the packets, not the bottles.
I assume the reason we don't see this trend in USA is market analyses reveal Americans prefer their traditional bottles and perhaps even subjectively view the same product as a dry powder in a packet (just add water) as "inferior". As we head into the double-dip "recession" I would not be surprised if we see these attitudes change. Already the manufacturers of liquid laundry detergent have reduced the size of the bottles by concentrating the liquid. Prices are rising as energy costs and thus transportation costs rise (even the plastic bottles are more expensive because they are a petroleum product). I expect to see the packets in the USA in the not distant future. I'd buy the powdered products to save money...AND to not have to worry about my plastic grocery bags breaking on the way to the car.
However.... Don't hold your breath waiting for Vaseline shampoo.
And finally... my favorite product -- toothpaste. If you ask a Filipino (particularly over 40) how do you say "toothpaste" in Filipino languages, the answer is "Colgate". It's kind of a joke now. It's like calling any brand of facial tissue "Kleenex". The brand is so deeply linked to the thing...it has become the thing. Companies wish for this status and spend a fortune to achieve it. Kleenex achieved it, so did Coke, and in the Philippines so did Colgate. But unlike Kleenex or Coke, Colgate got a HUGE amount of help from the US Military at the end of World War 2. When the USA provided aid to the Philippines for post-war reconstruction (including schools and teachers, a curriculum in English and based on the US educational system) the military aid effort distributed a LOT of Colgate. In many places it was the only toothpaste many Filipinos had ever seen or used.
So when Eme's mom (age 61) asked me to buy some "colgate" she didn't really mean "Colgate". She needed toothpaste. However, if she were asked to choose from all the brands, she would pick Colgate. Colgate probably enjoys a huge market advantage over other brands of toothpaste because of the boost the brand received after the war.
Another interesting WW2 connection is the very widespread use of a single large spoon for eating everything (unless using fingers, which is very common). The spoons are the roughly the same size as the US Army mess kit spoons...which were ubiquitous here after the war. Today a large spoon (no fork or knife) is the common eating utensil. We have about 8 of the large spoons...and not a single table knife or fork.
It's easy to think the Philippines is highly Americanized because so many speak English, all the signs are in English, official documents (like school transcripts and passport applications, court documents, etc.) are in English. So much is familiar it's easy to assume that cultural conflicts will not be an issue (they don't have to be an issue...unless one forgets they are in Rome, or doesn't realize they are in Rome). A stay of no less than a month is needed to start to get a feel for the subtleties of Filipino culture. This is a topic that needs it's own post -- but describing even some of the more classic charateristics of the culture is extremely hard to put in words and there are pitfalls in attempting to do so! So I won't :-)
Empty Del Monte bottle number 2 and Banana Catsup on the right.
But one day the grocery store was all out of the Del Monte Hot and Spicy. So we had to look at alternatives. What we found was UFC Hot and Spicy Banana Catsup. It is made in Philippines by a Philippine company. It would not be red if they didn't put food coloring in it. The "banana" is not a sweet banana. It's more like a plantain. There are typical catsup spices in it and vinegar. It is also WAY hotter than the Del Monte catsup. It can't be hot enough for me so I love it. I think it has those common small red chilis that grow on bushes in the Philippines -- the same ones I took a picture of at the Market.
There are a lot of curious products here that do not exist in USA. For example, Vaseline shampoo! Yup...it's got the Vaseline name so you know it's good stuff. And...it comes as a powder you pour in whatever bottle your last shampoo came in and you just add water.
That's something else I noticed here. LOTS of familiar products that come in bottles in the USA, are equally present here in thick plastic bag/bottles with flat bottoms. They are are just stiff enough to stand up. And many products I've never seen in a powdered concentrated form are common here. Shampoos and dish soap are as common as there liquid in-a-bottle equivalents. They are like "powdered milk" -- and less expensive. These products make a lot of sense here for two BIG reasons:
1. Most of these products in liquid form are mostly water, making them heavy to ship and take up more shipping space. This weight and volume is then transferred to a Filipino customer who will most likely hand carry them on to a tricycle for a ride home. Several overloaded grocery bags filled with liquid products can be reduced to a single easy to carry bag filled with packets of the powdered product.
2. Lower cost... Shipping higher quantities of light weight and compact packets of powdered product reduces costs for the manufacturers and stores. These savings are passed on to the customers. Almost everyone I observed was buying the packets, not the bottles.
I assume the reason we don't see this trend in USA is market analyses reveal Americans prefer their traditional bottles and perhaps even subjectively view the same product as a dry powder in a packet (just add water) as "inferior". As we head into the double-dip "recession" I would not be surprised if we see these attitudes change. Already the manufacturers of liquid laundry detergent have reduced the size of the bottles by concentrating the liquid. Prices are rising as energy costs and thus transportation costs rise (even the plastic bottles are more expensive because they are a petroleum product). I expect to see the packets in the USA in the not distant future. I'd buy the powdered products to save money...AND to not have to worry about my plastic grocery bags breaking on the way to the car.
However.... Don't hold your breath waiting for Vaseline shampoo.
And finally... my favorite product -- toothpaste. If you ask a Filipino (particularly over 40) how do you say "toothpaste" in Filipino languages, the answer is "Colgate". It's kind of a joke now. It's like calling any brand of facial tissue "Kleenex". The brand is so deeply linked to the thing...it has become the thing. Companies wish for this status and spend a fortune to achieve it. Kleenex achieved it, so did Coke, and in the Philippines so did Colgate. But unlike Kleenex or Coke, Colgate got a HUGE amount of help from the US Military at the end of World War 2. When the USA provided aid to the Philippines for post-war reconstruction (including schools and teachers, a curriculum in English and based on the US educational system) the military aid effort distributed a LOT of Colgate. In many places it was the only toothpaste many Filipinos had ever seen or used.
So when Eme's mom (age 61) asked me to buy some "colgate" she didn't really mean "Colgate". She needed toothpaste. However, if she were asked to choose from all the brands, she would pick Colgate. Colgate probably enjoys a huge market advantage over other brands of toothpaste because of the boost the brand received after the war.
Another interesting WW2 connection is the very widespread use of a single large spoon for eating everything (unless using fingers, which is very common). The spoons are the roughly the same size as the US Army mess kit spoons...which were ubiquitous here after the war. Today a large spoon (no fork or knife) is the common eating utensil. We have about 8 of the large spoons...and not a single table knife or fork.
It's easy to think the Philippines is highly Americanized because so many speak English, all the signs are in English, official documents (like school transcripts and passport applications, court documents, etc.) are in English. So much is familiar it's easy to assume that cultural conflicts will not be an issue (they don't have to be an issue...unless one forgets they are in Rome, or doesn't realize they are in Rome). A stay of no less than a month is needed to start to get a feel for the subtleties of Filipino culture. This is a topic that needs it's own post -- but describing even some of the more classic charateristics of the culture is extremely hard to put in words and there are pitfalls in attempting to do so! So I won't :-)
Saturday, July 30, 2011
Wheels I would want
Buying a car in Philippines just doesn't interest me. A car just isn't practical enough for the less than ideal roads generally found in Philippines. Also, a car is better for moving people - not stuff. A small Kia/Hyundai SUV (the NEW Sportage is here) might be nice. But for just running around town I'd like to have both of these... BOTH for less than half the cost of a new Kia Sportage.
This is a 4x4 Suzuki Multi-Cab. These things are near
bullet proof and easy to maintain. They are like a Mini-Mog, light weight, simple-but-modern mechanicals (synchronized transmissions, low range gearing, 12-valve, fuel-injected, 3-cylinder engine - some turbo charged). A British military mechanic told me they
are awesome and the best vehicle value in Philippines with easy parts availability.
This is not the nicest one I've seen. Some are equiped with slight lifts and covered beds (removable).
They cruise along nicely at typical road speeds rural Philippines. I think they'll do 50 mph easily. They shine off-road where they are easy to extract from mud with a hand-winch...or 3 friends could lift it out.
I spotted this one parked across from Urious University, in Butuan. After this picture was taken a college professor got in and drove off. It is also a Suzuki Mult-Cab
in the small VAN style. Don't ask about airbags, crash tests, etc. However, these do often have AC. Around town it's awesome. This one is rear-2-wheel-drive, but these also come in slightly lifted 4x4 versions.
Friday, July 29, 2011
More Kian
Just the most recent cute pics. He is growing before our eyes (and getting heavier). He's grown almost 10 centimeters since we visited the pediatrician on July 4th. He just passed 3 months old on July 19.
I have no good references - but to me Kian seems big for his age. He grew 8 to 9 centimeters in July. He'll be 4 months old on August 19. He tries to stand if supported, but he also walks...with articulation of his knees. He pushes off when you lift him as if to jump. He's never supporting more than a quarter of his weight. He is also strong and his muscles are getting more defined.
Local Public Transportation
You'll have to return to this post again, because I'm starting it with mostly text and will flesh it out with photos as I take them...
The most iconic form of public transportation in the Philippines is the Jeepney -- originally made by extending and modifying abandoned Jeep Willys left behind by the USA after WW2. I have actually seen 2 or 3 well preserved Jeep Willys-based Jeepneys while in Manila (where I'm aure there were greater numbers of the abandoned Jeeps to begin with). But what is interesting is how over the years completely original and MUCH larger jeepneys have been hand-crafted onto surplus truck chassis. These big ones still retain a Jeep nose and cab resemblance...the classic grill is always retained.
These hand-made jeepneys are diesel powered and very elaborately painted and decorated (ornamented). They are awesome! And nothing says "Philippines" to me faster than the sight of a Jeepney...because they don't exist anywhere else and are directly tied to an American icon -- the Jeep Willys. You would have a hard time knowing which make of diesel engine is under the hood because the front grill may have a Mercedes-Benz Star, while the side of the door may have a large Izusu logo, or Mitsubishi...and assorted other make badges all around. The builders seem to be deliberately flaunting that it is hand made out of whatever parts were available. It could be ANY brand or a combination. They remind me of the Johnny Cash song that goes "I built it one piece at a time...and it didn't cost me a dime..." (sneaking various Cadillac parts out over the years until he had a complete monster of a Cadillac).
However, during my previous trip I noticed the rise of the smaller 3-cylinder "extended" passenger-carrying multi-cabs were more common than the Jeepneys. These are the Suzuki multi-cabs primarily (the best ones). In the USA these are limited to working on golf courses and farms or on large industrial facilities and airports...running stuff and staff around. They are not street legal in the USA. Here...they are EVERYWHERE. If I lived here I'd own one of the VAN style and one of the Mini-Mog 4x4 versions...but these will be the subject of another post :-)
This summer I've noticed the almost complete absence of the classic Jeepneys (do a Google Image search for Jeepney...I wish they were legal in USA so I could shuttle folks to parties or Proms in festive style and make some good money. Imagine the smiling faces of children seeing a Jeepney in a parade. I actually think I saw a Jeepney in the Wayne Carini's shop during an episode of Chasing Classic Cars, on HD Theater). During this trip I have seen ZERO working as people movers in the city (not including the very large ones shuttle people from the rural areas into the Market with their veggies, fruits, chickens, eggs, etc. to be sold. Why are all the cool Jeepneys (like you saw in your Google image search) gone? The answer is a familiar one -- E-testing has come to the Philippines. I must say I have noticed the air smells better than it used to. I have seen one of the emissions test stations. They are getting serious about clean air here. I remember riding ON a Jeepney was always better than riding BEHIND one. All were dirty, and some extreme gross polluters like we haven't seen in USA since the black clouds of smoke pouring from diesel semi trucks that I remember growing up in the 1970s.
How many people can fit in a Jeepney?.... "One more" :-)
Even the name "Jeepney" will become a piece of history. The new extended multi-cabs (lightly used from Japan, they are imported to conversion companies in Manila or Cebu, cut in the center, extended and reinforced, suspensions are beefed up, steering is moved to the left side, new body work, tuned up or new 12-valve 3 cylinder motors dropped in, some are even turbo charged). They are simply referred to as "multi-cabs". Bummer...not nearly as cool as a "Jeepney". They are MUCH more fuel-efficient and cleaner. (I'll post pictures of these multicabs after taking some good representative shots).
By far the most common form of transport for running around town making short trips is by "tricycle". Relatively few people in the Philippines own cars (though I sense the number is increasing), and now I'm noticing many newer cars, especially Hondas, Toyotas, and especially all the Hyundai and Kia compact SUVs (same models as USA) and their smaller micro cars (which we will probably never see in the USA). I remember even last year seeing more "beaters" running around, even the taxis were often close to beater status. Look closely at the photos from this trip and you will notice mostly relatively new cars and tricycles...few if any old beaters. Once again this is the result of E-testing.
E-testing has effectively translated into a boom for tricycle drivers because only the wealthy can afford newer cars that pass the E-tests. Everyone else is back in the tricycle or "multi-cabs". It's not necessarily a bad thing...traffic seems less jammed and chaotic. The effect is similar to everyone in the USA leaving their car at home and taking public transportation (if we had public transportation that actually was practical and could get EVERYONE to work on time).
Even the tricycles must pass an emissions test, and now each town seems to have it's own paint color that all tricycles must use. All engines are 4-stroke, which burn much cleaner than 2-stroke motors and are much quieter.
There is an Eco-friendly tricycle, called a "Put-Put" in some places (or "Pedi-cab", or something else). It's human powered. I have not ridden in one yet on this trip because they are suited to shorter trips. But we could use them to go to the mall. Wish we'd used these for the 6 or 8 trips we've made to the G-Mall (where the grocery store is). All tricycles in town have a fixed rate per ride (fixed by the city) of 8 pesos (about 18 cents) to go anywhere within the central city area. Beyond that limit you work out a deal with the driver (same goes for carrying items, like the bed we purchased). The guys pedaling the Put -Puts earn the same 8 pesos per passenger per ride. They do not have to buy gas or maintain the motorcycle. But, they are limited to flatter parts of the town, and mostly are seen in the area around the Market.
The Put-Put drivers are fit...no fat anywhere on them. Some appear to be in their 60s. I'm surprised how easily they glide along with a load of passengers. The bikes are single speed...but must have just the right gear ratio and less internal friction due to simpler drivetrain. Sadly, "status" is a relative thing...and alive and well in Philippines as in any country. Riding on a motorized tricycle is higher status and considered the better way to travel. This means the Put-Puts get marginalized, get fewer riders, and get less respect in traffic. For our remaining trips to the G-Mall we will take Put-Puts...cleaner, quieter, and puts food on a poor family's table.
The most iconic form of public transportation in the Philippines is the Jeepney -- originally made by extending and modifying abandoned Jeep Willys left behind by the USA after WW2. I have actually seen 2 or 3 well preserved Jeep Willys-based Jeepneys while in Manila (where I'm aure there were greater numbers of the abandoned Jeeps to begin with). But what is interesting is how over the years completely original and MUCH larger jeepneys have been hand-crafted onto surplus truck chassis. These big ones still retain a Jeep nose and cab resemblance...the classic grill is always retained.
These hand-made jeepneys are diesel powered and very elaborately painted and decorated (ornamented). They are awesome! And nothing says "Philippines" to me faster than the sight of a Jeepney...because they don't exist anywhere else and are directly tied to an American icon -- the Jeep Willys. You would have a hard time knowing which make of diesel engine is under the hood because the front grill may have a Mercedes-Benz Star, while the side of the door may have a large Izusu logo, or Mitsubishi...and assorted other make badges all around. The builders seem to be deliberately flaunting that it is hand made out of whatever parts were available. It could be ANY brand or a combination. They remind me of the Johnny Cash song that goes "I built it one piece at a time...and it didn't cost me a dime..." (sneaking various Cadillac parts out over the years until he had a complete monster of a Cadillac).
However, during my previous trip I noticed the rise of the smaller 3-cylinder "extended" passenger-carrying multi-cabs were more common than the Jeepneys. These are the Suzuki multi-cabs primarily (the best ones). In the USA these are limited to working on golf courses and farms or on large industrial facilities and airports...running stuff and staff around. They are not street legal in the USA. Here...they are EVERYWHERE. If I lived here I'd own one of the VAN style and one of the Mini-Mog 4x4 versions...but these will be the subject of another post :-)
These extended and modified 3-cylinder Multi-Cabs
have almost completely replaced the traditional Jeepneys.
These are much more fuel efficient and pass the new emissions tests.
This summer I've noticed the almost complete absence of the classic Jeepneys (do a Google Image search for Jeepney...I wish they were legal in USA so I could shuttle folks to parties or Proms in festive style and make some good money. Imagine the smiling faces of children seeing a Jeepney in a parade. I actually think I saw a Jeepney in the Wayne Carini's shop during an episode of Chasing Classic Cars, on HD Theater). During this trip I have seen ZERO working as people movers in the city (not including the very large ones shuttle people from the rural areas into the Market with their veggies, fruits, chickens, eggs, etc. to be sold. Why are all the cool Jeepneys (like you saw in your Google image search) gone? The answer is a familiar one -- E-testing has come to the Philippines. I must say I have noticed the air smells better than it used to. I have seen one of the emissions test stations. They are getting serious about clean air here. I remember riding ON a Jeepney was always better than riding BEHIND one. All were dirty, and some extreme gross polluters like we haven't seen in USA since the black clouds of smoke pouring from diesel semi trucks that I remember growing up in the 1970s.
How many people can fit in a Jeepney?.... "One more" :-)
Even the name "Jeepney" will become a piece of history. The new extended multi-cabs (lightly used from Japan, they are imported to conversion companies in Manila or Cebu, cut in the center, extended and reinforced, suspensions are beefed up, steering is moved to the left side, new body work, tuned up or new 12-valve 3 cylinder motors dropped in, some are even turbo charged). They are simply referred to as "multi-cabs". Bummer...not nearly as cool as a "Jeepney". They are MUCH more fuel-efficient and cleaner. (I'll post pictures of these multicabs after taking some good representative shots).
By far the most common form of transport for running around town making short trips is by "tricycle". Relatively few people in the Philippines own cars (though I sense the number is increasing), and now I'm noticing many newer cars, especially Hondas, Toyotas, and especially all the Hyundai and Kia compact SUVs (same models as USA) and their smaller micro cars (which we will probably never see in the USA). I remember even last year seeing more "beaters" running around, even the taxis were often close to beater status. Look closely at the photos from this trip and you will notice mostly relatively new cars and tricycles...few if any old beaters. Once again this is the result of E-testing.
E-testing has effectively translated into a boom for tricycle drivers because only the wealthy can afford newer cars that pass the E-tests. Everyone else is back in the tricycle or "multi-cabs". It's not necessarily a bad thing...traffic seems less jammed and chaotic. The effect is similar to everyone in the USA leaving their car at home and taking public transportation (if we had public transportation that actually was practical and could get EVERYONE to work on time).
Even the tricycles must pass an emissions test, and now each town seems to have it's own paint color that all tricycles must use. All engines are 4-stroke, which burn much cleaner than 2-stroke motors and are much quieter.
There is an Eco-friendly tricycle, called a "Put-Put" in some places (or "Pedi-cab", or something else). It's human powered. I have not ridden in one yet on this trip because they are suited to shorter trips. But we could use them to go to the mall. Wish we'd used these for the 6 or 8 trips we've made to the G-Mall (where the grocery store is). All tricycles in town have a fixed rate per ride (fixed by the city) of 8 pesos (about 18 cents) to go anywhere within the central city area. Beyond that limit you work out a deal with the driver (same goes for carrying items, like the bed we purchased). The guys pedaling the Put -Puts earn the same 8 pesos per passenger per ride. They do not have to buy gas or maintain the motorcycle. But, they are limited to flatter parts of the town, and mostly are seen in the area around the Market.
A "Put-Put" taking folks to the Market.
Parked on the side of the road is a Jeepney from the rural province
loaded with items for sale at the market or on the side of the road.
This Put-Put driver was keeping up with the flow.
The Put-Put drivers are fit...no fat anywhere on them. Some appear to be in their 60s. I'm surprised how easily they glide along with a load of passengers. The bikes are single speed...but must have just the right gear ratio and less internal friction due to simpler drivetrain. Sadly, "status" is a relative thing...and alive and well in Philippines as in any country. Riding on a motorized tricycle is higher status and considered the better way to travel. This means the Put-Puts get marginalized, get fewer riders, and get less respect in traffic. For our remaining trips to the G-Mall we will take Put-Puts...cleaner, quieter, and puts food on a poor family's table.
Round and round the Market waiting for riders to flag them.
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