Wheels I would want

Buying a car in Philippines just doesn't interest me. A car just isn't practical enough for the less than ideal roads generally found in Philippines.  Also, a car is better for moving people - not stuff.  A small Kia/Hyundai SUV (the NEW Sportage is here) might be nice. But for just running around town I'd like to have both of these... BOTH for less than half the cost of a new Kia Sportage.

This is a 4x4 Suzuki Multi-Cab. These things are near

bullet proof and easy to maintain. They are like a Mini-Mog, light weight, simple-but-modern mechanicals (synchronized transmissions, low range gearing, 12-valve, fuel-injected, 3-cylinder engine - some turbo charged). A British military mechanic told me they

are awesome and the best vehicle value in Philippines with easy parts availability.

This is not the nicest one I've seen. Some are equiped with slight lifts and covered beds (removable).

They cruise along nicely at typical road speeds rural Philippines.  I think they'll do 50 mph easily. They shine off-road where they are easy to extract from mud with a hand-winch...or 3 friends could lift it out.

I spotted this one parked across from Urious University, in Butuan. After this picture was taken a college professor got in and drove off. It is also a Suzuki Mult-Cab

in the small VAN style. Don't ask about airbags, crash tests, etc. However, these do often have AC. Around town it's awesome. This one is rear-2-wheel-drive, but these also come in slightly lifted 4x4 versions.

More Kian

Just the most recent cute pics.  He is growing before our eyes (and getting heavier).  He's grown almost 10 centimeters since we visited the pediatrician on July 4th. He just passed 3 months old on July 19.

 

I have no good references - but to me Kian seems big for his age. He grew 8 to 9 centimeters in July. He'll be 4 months old on August 19. He tries to stand if supported, but he also walks...with articulation of his knees. He pushes off when you lift him as if to jump. He's never supporting more than a quarter of his weight. He is also strong and his muscles are getting more defined.

Local Public Transportation

You'll have to return to this post again, because I'm starting it with mostly text and will flesh it out with photos as I take them...

The most iconic form of public transportation in the Philippines is the Jeepney -- originally made by extending and modifying abandoned Jeep Willys left behind by the USA after WW2.  I have actually seen 2 or 3 well preserved Jeep Willys-based Jeepneys while in Manila (where I'm aure there were greater numbers of the abandoned Jeeps to begin with).  But what is interesting is how over the years completely original and MUCH larger jeepneys have been hand-crafted onto surplus truck chassis. These big ones still retain a Jeep nose and cab resemblance...the classic grill is always retained.

These hand-made jeepneys are diesel powered and very elaborately painted and decorated (ornamented). They are awesome! And nothing says "Philippines" to me faster than the sight of a Jeepney...because they don't exist anywhere else and are directly tied to an American icon -- the Jeep Willys.  You would have a hard time knowing which make of diesel engine is under the hood because the front grill may have a Mercedes-Benz Star, while the side  of the door may have a large Izusu logo, or Mitsubishi...and assorted other make badges all around. The builders seem to be deliberately flaunting that it is hand made out of whatever parts were available. It could be ANY brand or a combination.  They remind me of the Johnny Cash song that goes "I built it one piece at a time...and it didn't cost me a dime..." (sneaking various Cadillac parts out over the years until he had a complete monster of a Cadillac).

However, during my previous trip I noticed the rise of the smaller 3-cylinder "extended" passenger-carrying multi-cabs were more common than the Jeepneys.  These are the Suzuki multi-cabs primarily (the best ones). In the USA these are limited to working on golf courses and farms or on large industrial facilities and airports...running stuff and staff around. They are not street legal in the USA.  Here...they are EVERYWHERE. If I lived here I'd own one of the VAN style and one of the Mini-Mog 4x4 versions...but these will be the subject of another post :-)

These extended and modified 3-cylinder Multi-Cabs

have almost completely replaced the traditional Jeepneys.

These are much more fuel efficient and pass the new emissions tests.

This summer I've noticed the almost complete absence of the classic Jeepneys (do a Google Image search for Jeepney...I wish they were legal in USA so I could shuttle folks to parties or Proms in festive style and make some good money. Imagine the smiling faces of children seeing a Jeepney in a parade. I actually think I saw a Jeepney in the Wayne Carini's shop during an episode of Chasing Classic Cars, on HD Theater). During this trip I have seen ZERO working as people movers in the city (not including the very large ones shuttle people from the rural areas into the Market with their veggies, fruits, chickens, eggs, etc. to be sold. Why are all the cool Jeepneys (like you saw in your Google image search) gone?  The answer is a familiar one -- E-testing has come to the Philippines.  I must say I have noticed the air smells better than it used to.  I have seen one of the emissions test stations. They are getting serious about clean air here. I remember riding ON a Jeepney was always better than riding BEHIND one. All were dirty, and some extreme gross polluters like we haven't seen in USA since the black clouds of smoke pouring from diesel semi trucks that I remember growing up in the 1970s.

How many people can fit in a Jeepney?....  "One more" :-)

Even the name "Jeepney" will become a piece of history.  The new extended multi-cabs (lightly used from Japan, they are imported to conversion companies in Manila or Cebu, cut in the center, extended and reinforced, suspensions are beefed up, steering is moved to the left side, new body work, tuned up or new 12-valve 3 cylinder motors dropped in, some are even turbo charged). They are simply referred to as "multi-cabs".  Bummer...not nearly as cool as a "Jeepney". They are MUCH more fuel-efficient and cleaner. (I'll post pictures of these multicabs after taking some good representative shots).

By far the most common form of transport for running around town making short trips is by "tricycle".  Relatively few people in the Philippines own cars (though I sense the number is increasing), and now I'm noticing many newer cars, especially Hondas, Toyotas, and especially all the Hyundai and Kia compact SUVs (same models as USA) and their smaller micro cars (which we will probably never see in the USA). I remember even last year seeing more "beaters" running around, even the taxis were often close to beater status. Look closely at the photos from this trip and you will notice mostly relatively new cars and tricycles...few if any old beaters.  Once again this is the result of E-testing.

E-testing has effectively translated into a boom for tricycle drivers because only the wealthy can afford newer cars that pass the E-tests. Everyone else is back in the tricycle or "multi-cabs".  It's not necessarily a bad thing...traffic seems less jammed and chaotic.  The effect is similar to everyone in the USA leaving their car at home and taking public transportation (if we had public transportation that actually was practical and could get EVERYONE to work on time).

Even the tricycles must pass an emissions test, and now each town seems to have it's own paint color that all tricycles must use. All engines are 4-stroke, which burn much cleaner than 2-stroke motors and are much quieter.

There is an Eco-friendly tricycle, called a "Put-Put" in some places (or "Pedi-cab", or something else). It's human powered. I have not ridden in one yet on this trip because they are suited to shorter trips. But we could use them to go to the mall. Wish we'd used these for the 6 or 8 trips we've made to the G-Mall (where the grocery store is). All tricycles in town have a fixed rate per ride (fixed by the city) of 8 pesos (about 18 cents) to go anywhere within the central city area.  Beyond that limit you work out a deal with the driver (same goes for carrying items, like the bed we purchased). The guys pedaling the Put -Puts earn the same 8 pesos per passenger per ride. They do not have to buy gas or maintain the motorcycle. But, they are limited to flatter parts of the town, and mostly are seen in the area around the Market.

A "Put-Put" taking folks to the Market.

Parked on the side of the road is a Jeepney from the rural province

loaded with items for sale at the market or on the side of the road.

This Put-Put driver was keeping up with the flow.

The Put-Put drivers are fit...no fat anywhere on them.  Some appear to be in their 60s. I'm surprised how easily they glide along with a load of passengers. The bikes are single speed...but must have just the right gear ratio and less internal friction due to simpler drivetrain. Sadly, "status" is a relative thing...and alive and well in Philippines as in any country. Riding on a motorized tricycle is higher status and considered the better way to travel. This means the Put-Puts get marginalized, get fewer riders, and get less respect in traffic. For our remaining trips to the G-Mall we will take Put-Puts...cleaner, quieter, and puts food on a poor family's table.

Round and round the Market waiting for riders to flag them.

The Market - Day 2

We returned to the market today to get some fresh tuna, prawns, veggies, red rice, and take a lot more pictures. Enjoy.

The variety of bananas that is most popular are these smaller and much sweeter bananas that are not commonly exported.

Great looking veggies all along the front of the market.

Shy girls smiling for the camera. If you ever try one of these grass brooms you will never go back to a heavy two-hander broom for simple floor sweeping. These are super light, designed for one-handed use, and the super fine grass doesn't miss a thing. You can get them at asian super markets like Grand Mart, in Centerville and Sterling. I have one.

Habeneros get all the hype for being hot, but these tiny red chilis, when they turn red, are hotter than anything I've ever eaten. We picked some in the forest last year near Eme's home. They grow on a bush that has woody trunk and branches. These chilis are like decorations on the bush. Just one of these vitamin-pill sized chilis is enough for most dishes.

Juice stands

Deep-fried egg. Hard-boiled egg, rolled in flour, then deep fried.

This special Philippine delicacy was featured as an "Eating Challenge" on the TV show "Fear Factor" a few years back. The contestants didnt' seem to like it very much. Do a Google search for "Balot" and read until you can't read anymore. NOTE: The more challenging one, is the one that costs 15 pesos.

More dried fish...you smell it before you sea it.

Have brooms EVER been so beautiful?

Red Rice...it's what's for dinner...and has a nice nutty flavor!

Eme buying our veggies. These two ladies had the best variety and best quality

Marlon on the left, tuna on the right.

Our tuna being trimmed. We bought it to make sabow (fish soup)

Shrimp and prawns

Prawn on the left, shrimp on the right - we bought a kilo of prawns.

Kian and I hung our hats back at home and waited for dinner -- tuna and veggies sabow, peel and eat shrimp, and red rice.

The Apartment and Costs of Living in the Philippines

Our apartment in Butuan is moderately high-end relative to the dwellings of most residents in this town. There are nicer places, but this suits our needs and purpose and is INEXPENSIVE. The rent is 6000 pesos per month (about $138 per month.).

Our apartment is at the far end of the upper floor of the yellow building.

The kitchen is adequate as is the single burner stove we purchased (it's like campstove). We purchased an efficient non-frost free refrigerator/freezer.

There are two bedrooms of the same size...SMALL. Each room has a handy built in closet.

We also bought a small GE window AC unit for our small bedroom (purchased it from Mady who found it inadequate for her internet cafe). The small unit is more than adequate for this small space and runs on LOW all day at the middle temperature setting. At night we turn it down a notch when the room gets a little chilly.  Kian got very hot during mid to late afternoons, even with fans blowing right on him while he was laying on the bed. Kian would sleep a lot or lay lethargically in the bed. Eme often gave him a cooling bath in the afternoon. Now Kian is like a little Energizer Bunny since AC has cooled and dried the bedroom. His sleep is deeper and more restful...waking up smiling every day.

The bathroom is very basic by US standards.  More familiar "Americanized" bathrooms with typical flushing toilets and showers do exist here. However, most filipinos use big bucket filled with cool water (no need for hot water here...or you'll be sweating right out of the shower), and smaller bucket with a handle (like a plastic saucepan) to scoop water from the big bucket and dump over their head and rinse off. I showed once with the hand-held shower Eme had installed only for me...but the water pressure is not adequate because our water pressure comes primarily from a big blue barrel on a metal tower -- which unfortunately is only a little bit higher than our apartment, so there is not enough pressure head. If I lived here and built a house...I'd have a  tower taller than the house and two barrels (one shiny stainless steel for cooler water, and one painted black for some warmer water for an evening shower). I'm not sure there is a need for a more sophisticated panel-type solar water heater because mostly you want to jump in a cool swimming pool, not take a hot shower.

Flushing the toilet means using the white pail to

pour water in the toilet. Works well actually.

This is our water supply. It is filled by a slower feed from below.

It is also the source of pressure for our faucet and shower...

There's not enough pressure for a shower.

If I lived here full-time I'd rent a nicer furnished place for a whopping 15,000 pesos per month (about $345). A very nice house with a sizable lot could be rented for under $550 per month. A maid would run about $30 per month. BUT..electricity is more expensive here than in the USA, so very quickly the savings gets eaten up if you try to cool a large home with AC. You can live MUCH cheaper in the Philippines than in the USA, but you have to be careful and watch your spending (particularly if the currency exchange between dollars and pesos has not become intuitive in your head).  Spending pesos feels like spending Monopoly money. But buying gasoline or paying for electricity is significantly more expensive than in USA.

The only real cost savings per living in Philippines are lower rents and lower costs of labor. Home Depot or Lowe's would go out of business so fast here...and this is why such big box DIY centers don't exist.  In USA costs of labor have gone up so much in the past few decades that more and more people started learning how to do basic remodelling, plumbing, electrical, etc. for themselves.  The entire DIY revolution, to my mind, has been driven by labor costs going up and up. I don't have much simpathy if an over-charging plumber or contractor who finds himself competing with cheaper foreign labor. If they want an income like an engineer...study hard in high school and go to college and get a degree in Engineering (As a high-school science teacher I see most students opting out of such a challenge...but they expect to live well anyway).  A plumber charged my mom $600 to install a new faucet in her bathroom, broke some tile, and did a little pipe soldering...mom did the drywall work. Here the entire job would cost me well under $100, and 80% of the cost would be for the new faucet! (so if fancy faucet is not a priority, the job gets even cheaper!).

Some Examples for comparison:

Example 1:
The AC unit required an electician to install a magnetic interrupt switch to protect the unit during sometimes rapidly fluctuating brownouts, a 240V high current outlet, and about half a meter of wire. The nice man visited us on a Saturday morning, tested the wire hanging from the ceiling in the bedroom to see if it was live (it was) and then made a list of items we needed to buy so he could finish the job (this is typical). So we went to the hardward store and bought all the items, and included a hammer, saw, nails, and some wood so we could frame the AC unit in the window. We sent a text message to the nice man and he came back right away and got to work. His installation of the magnetic switch, outlet and tacking down the wiring is great...very neat. But he was not finished. He helped lift the AC into place, measure and cut the wood, and we nailed in a nice frame around it and covered the window with heavy plastic to reduce air leaks.  Of course we offered him snacks and Coca Cola (it's customary to provide snacks and beverages for workers). He'd been here a total of about 1 and a half hours. So I asked "Pila?" (how much?). He paused and said "500". Five-hundred pesos is about $11.50. I paid about  2,300 pesos for the magnetic switch, outlet, wire, nails, wood, hammer, and a saw (about $53).

Example 2: Read my post about getting a haircut.

Example 3: We bought a modest, locally-handcrafted, wooden platform bed a few days ago. We brought it home on top of a tricycle.The metal one included with the apartment had metal bars about 6 inches apart instead of a flat platform. I didn't like feeling the bars in my sleep. We failed to consider the bed might not fit up the stairs to the apartment (the metal one comes apart easily).

The tricycle driver and a carpenter already working on a job for our landlord tried all angles to get it to fit. No way would it go up the stairs. So, the carpenter offered to take the legs off the bed after he was finished with his other job. About an hour later he took it apart in approximately 20 minutes. Then we moved the pieces upstairs where he went to work reassembling it in about 20 minutes, carefully checking for level and sturdiness (good thing we had nails leftover from the AC job).

When he was packing up his tools I asked "pila?"  He looked down shyly, then said to Eme "Whatever he thinks is fair". He really is shy about asking because he does not speak the language, but also he knows there is a chance I'll offer more than he would have asked for (depends..some foreigners really try to exploit the local labor). He could always counter if my offer was inordinately low. He has a young family and it was already past dinner time and dark outside....I said "300" ($6.89). This was not like taking apart a piece of IKEA furniture and putting it back together. This was a finished bed, not intended to be disassembled.  When he was finished I could not tell it had ever been taken apart. All together, including paying the tricycle driver and the carpenter, I have about $43 in the bed.